Colpitts Hotel, Durham City
This is Steve’s guide to his favourite pubs in Northumbria. They are Ted’s favourite pubs also, though any pub that is open is his favourite. The main criteria are decent beer (cask ale in Steve’s case) and a welcoming friendly atmosphere rather than food, beer gardens or range of wines and spirits.

The pubs are divided into three categories:
- The Top 20. There are currently 24 pubs in the top 20: I never was good at counting.
- Nearly there pubs are very good also. The reason they are not in the top 20 varies and I’d like to try another time of day or week to make up my mind.
- The Try Also group are decent pubs also….worth dropping in if you are in the area.
The list is organised by county, from North to South (Northumberland, Tyne and Wear, County Durham including Darlington and the ex-bits of Cleveland north of the River Tees), and within that alphabetically by place. GBG means they are in the 2023 CAMRA Good Beer Guide. Pubs which we haven’t visited for more than five years are dropped from the guide – each entry notes the most recent year we visited. Getting out and about once more in 2022 means that there are a number of re-entries.
Steve Gillon, January 2023.
Update, 4 March 2023: The Welcome Inn in Bishop Auckland, County Durham is currently closed and seeking a new tenant.
Ship Inn, Low Newton by the Sea
NORTHUMBERLAND | ||
Alnmouth | Try Also | Red Lion, GBG. 2022 |
Alnwick | Try Also | Ale Gate, GBG. Micropub. 2022
Harry’s Bar. Micropub. 2022 RE-ENTRY John Bull, GBG, 2022 Tanners Arms, GBG, 2022 |
Bamburgh | Try Also | Castle Hotel, 2018 |
Beadnell | Try Also | Craster Arms, 2021 |
Belford | Try Also | Black Swan, GBG, 2018
Blue Bell, 2018 |
Berwick Upon Tweed | TOP 20 | Pilot, 31 Low Greens, TD15 1LZ, GBG. An excellent traditional boozer. 2021 |
Berwick Upon Tweed | Try Also | Castle, 2021
Curfew, GBG. Micropub, 2021 |
The Blue Bell, Belford
Craster | Try Also | Jolly Fisherman, GBG, 2018 |
Embleton | TOP 20 | Greys Inn, Stanley Terrace, NE66 3UY, GBG. Good beer, coal fires, busy and friendly early doors. 2018. |
Hexham | Try Also | Platform Bar, Hexham Station, GBG. Micropub. 2022
Victorian Tap, formerly Tap and Spile, GBG, 2022 |
Low Newton-by-the- Sea | TOP 20 | Ship Inn, NE66 3EL, GBG. Tremendous location on village green. Fine beer brewed on site. Can get a bit like a canteen on busy lunchtimes. 2018. |
Morpeth | Nearly There | RE-ENTRY Tap and Spile, 23 Manchester St, NE61 1BH, GBG. Friendly traditional pub. 2022 |
Morpeth | Try Also | Joiners, GBG, 2022
Office, GBG. Micropub. 2018 |
Castle Brew House, Sun Hotel, Warkworth
Old Hartley | Try Also | RE-ENTRY Delaval Arms, GBG, 2022 |
Once Brewed | Try Also | Twice Brewed Inn. GBG. On-site brewery and fine beers. 2019. |
Rothbury | Try Also | Narrow Nick. Micropub. 2018. |
Seahouses | TOP 20 | Olde Ship, 7-9 Main St, NE68 7RD. Hard to beat. Excellent range of beers, friendly, the bar full of nautical bits and pieces is a classic. Eclectic range of customers completes the scene. Ownership has changed recently. 2021. |
Warkworth | Try Also | Castle Brew House (Sun Hotel), GBG, 2022
Hermitage Inn, 2022 Masons Arms, 2019 |
Wylam | TOP 20 | Boathouse Inn, Station Rd, NE41 8HR. Well worth missing a train for. Get off at Wylam if passing through. Tremendous beers, friendly atmosphere. 2022 |
The public bar of the Olde Ship, Seahouses
TYNE AND WEAR (Gateshead, Newcastle, North Tyneside, South Tyneside, Sunderland) | ||
Birtley | Try Also | Railway, 2022 |
Blaydon | Try Also | Black Bull, 2022
The Yard. Micropub. 2022 |
Felling | Try Also | Old Fox, GBG. 2018
Wheatsheaf, GBG. 2018 |
Gateshead | TOP 20 | Central, Half Moon Lane, NE8 2AN. GBG. Near Tyne Bridge. Excellently refurbished pub. Good beer. 2019 |
Gateshead | Try Also | By the River Brewing Co. No cask ale Expensive craft keg beers. Included here due to tremendous location by Tyne and Swing Bridges. 2018.
Station East, 2019 |
Jarrow | Try Also | Albion Gin & Ale House, GBG, 2021 |
Monkseaton | Try Also
|
Left Luggage Room, Monkseaton Metro Station. 2022 |
Tyne Bar, Ouseburn, Newcastle
Newcastle City Centre | TOP 20 | Bacchus, 42-48 High Bridge, NE1 6BX. Well refurbished pub. Excellent range of real ale and unusual craft bottled and keg beers. 2022 |
Newcastle City Centre | TOP 20 | Crown Posada, 33 The Side, NE1 3JE. GBG. A gem of a pub. Good beer. Good music from the record player, friendly. 2022. |
Newcastle City Centre | TOP 20 | Bridge Tavern, 7 Akenside Hill, NE1 3UF. Pub with beer garden directly beneath the Tyne Bridge, with own microbrewery. 2021. |
Newcastle City Centre | TOP20 | Bridge Hotel, Castle Garth, NE1 1RQ. GBG. At North end of the High Level Bridge with excellent views from the beer garden. Well preserved and restored and a wide selection of beers. 2021 |

Newcastle City Centre | Nearly There | Mean Eyed Cat, 1 St Thomas St, NE1 4LE. GBG. Friendly micropub with wide selection of beer and cider. Handy for bus stations. 2022 |
Newcastle City Centre | Try Also | Centurion, Central Stn. Impressive interior. 2022.
Duke of Wellington, 2021 Forth. 2018 Hotspur. 2022 Old George, 2018 Split Chimp. GBG. Micropub. 2018 Strawberry, 2018 Telegraph, 2018 Town Wall. 2020. Wobbly Duck. GBG. Micropub. 2022 |
Newcastle, Heaton | Try Also | Heaton Tap, GBG. Micropub. 2022
Tipsy Toad. Micropub. 2022 |
Newcastle, Ouseburn | TOP 20 | Free Trade Inn, GBG. St Lawrence Rd, NE6 1AP. Beer as excellent as ever, as is the jukebox. Unbeatable location overlooking the Tyne. Great atmosphere. 2021. |
Newcastle, Ouseburn | Nearly There | Tyne Bar, GBG. 1 Maling St, NE6 1LP. By the River Tyne at Ouseburn. Good beer, atmosphere and food. Regular live music. 2018. |
Newcastle, Ouseburn | Try Also | Ship Inn, Stepney Bank, Byker. 2018 |
Free Trade Inn, Newcastle upon Tyne
South Gosforth | Nearly There | Victory, 43 Killingworth Rd, NE3 1SY, GBG. Traditional pub. 2022 |
South Gosforth | Try Also | RE-ENTRY Brandling Villa, 2022 |
South Shields | TOP 20 | Alum Ale House, Ferry St, NE33 1JR. Eight handpumps – ideal place to miss a ferry or six. 2021. |
South Shields | Nearly There | Marine, 230 Ocean Road, NE33 2JQ. GBG. Plenty of decent beers, Close to the sea front. 2021 |
Sunderland | Nearly There | Ivy House, Ashbrooke, SR2 7AW, GBG. Close to Park Lane bus and metro station, good beers and pizzas. 2018 |
Sunderland | Try Also | Harbour View, Roker, GBG, 2018.
Peacock. 2018 Ship Isis, GBG, 2018 |
Tynemouth Lodge, Tynemouth
Swalwell | Try Also | Owa the Road. GBG. Micropub. 2022
Sun Inn, GBG, 2022 |
Tynemouth | TOP 20 | RE-ENTRY, Tynemouth Lodge, Tynemouth Rd, NE30 4AA, GBG, Deservedly back after recent visits. Regular in GBG for 40 years. 2022 |
Tynemouth | Try Also | Copperfields. 2018
Platform 2. Tynemouth Metro. 2022 Turks Head. 2018 |
Whitburn | Try Also | Jolly Sailor 2018 |
Whitley Bay | Try Also | Split Chimp, Spanish City, GBG. Micropub. 2022 |
The Bridge Hotel and inside the Crown Posada, Newcastle
COUNTY DURHAM (and Darlington) | ||
Barnard Castle | Try Also | Old Well Inn, GBG, 2020. |
Bishop Auckland | TOP 20 | Welcome, Low Waldron St, DL14 7DS. GBG. Friendly back street local close to town centre. 2022 |
Try Also | Bay Horse, GBG. 2022
Green Tree, GBG,2022 |
|
Blackhill | Try Also | Scotch Arms, GBG, 2021 |
Chester le Street | Nearly There | Butchers Arms, Middle Chare, DH3 3QD, GBG. Fine traditional pub. 2022 |
Chester le Street | Try Also | Lambton Worm, 2021 |
Consett | TOP 20 | Grey Horse, 115 Sherburn Terrace, DH8 6NE, GBG. Friendly local pub, home of the Consett Ale Works Brewery…so a fine pint also. 2022. |

Darlington | TOP 20 | Number Twenty 2, 22 Coniscliffe Rd, DL3 7RG, GBG. For a modern pub its excellent with a great range of beers. 2021 |
Darlington | Nearly there | Quakerhouse, 2 Mechanics Yard, DL3 7QF, GBG. Fine pub with well-kept real ales. Regular live music. Friendly. 2018. |
Darlington | Try Also | Britannia. GBG. 2018
Darlington Snooker Club. CAMRA members welcome, GBG, 2019 Half Moon, GBG, 2019 ORB Micropub, GBG, 2019 |
Sunset at the Colpitts
Durham City | TOP 20 | Colpitts Hotel, Colpitts Terrace, DH1 4EL. GBG. Traditional Sam Smiths boozer, sympathetically refurbished, full of character (and characters). Good landlords (I’ll have a pint). 2022. |
Durham City | TOP 20 | Old Elm Tree, 12 Crossgate, DH1 4PS. GBG. Good beer, friendly local pub, well looked after. 2022. |
Durham City | TOP 20 | Victoria, 86 Hallgarth St, DH1 3AS, GBG. Historic pub, with all the plus points – good beer, friendly atmosphere and coal fire. 2022. |
Durham City | TOP 20 | Station House, North Road, DH1 4SE, GBG. Micropub with quality beer which has developed into a fine local. Excellent reputation for cider. CAMRA UK Pub of the Year 2022 Runner Up. 2022. |
Ted has a session in the Colpitts, Durham City
Durham City | Nearly There | Dun Cow, 37 Old Elvet, DH1 3HN, GBG. Tiny front bar ideal for a few pints and conversation. 2022 |
Durham City | Nearly There | Holy Grale, 57 Crossgate, DH1 4PR, GBG. Micropub which has become a good local boozer. Limited cask choice but large craft selection, 2022. |
Durham City | Try Also
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Half Moon, GBG, 2022.Hill Island Brewery, Restricted hours. Usually open Saturdays. 2022.Shakespeare, 2022
Waiting Room, on station platform. GBG. 2022. Woodman, 2022 |
Dun Cow, Seaton
Ferryhill Station | Nearly There | RE-ENTRY Surtees Arms, Chilton Lane, DL17 0DH, GBG. Home of Yard of Ale Brewery, plus guest beers. 2022 |
Framwellgate Moor | TOP 20 | Fram Ferment, 29B Front St, DH1 5EE, GBG. Friendly (particularly to dogs) micropub and bottle shop with good selection of beer and cider. 2022. |
Lanchester | Try Also | Crinnions, GBG, 2021 |
Middlestone Village | TOP 20 | Ship Inn, Low Road, DL14 8AB, GBG. A recent visit confirms that this still is an excellent village pub. 2021 |
Ship Inn, Middlestone
No Place | Try Also | Beamish Mary, GBG, 2019 |
Seaham | Try Also | Coalhouse, GBG. Micropub. Recently has new owners. 2019 |
Seaton | Nearly There | Dun Cow, The Village, SR7 0NA, GBG. Unspoilt local pub. 2022 |
Shincliffe Village | Try Also | Seven Stars, 2022 |
Spennymoor | Nearly There | Little Tap, King St, DL16 6QQ, GBG Small and friendly micropub. 2022 |
Spennymoor | Try Also | Frog and Ferret, GBG, 2021 |
The Frog and Ferret, Spennymoor
Stanhope | TOP 20 | REENTRY Grey Bull, 17 West Terr DL13 2PB, GBG. Friendly community pub, back in Top 20 after recent visit. 2022 |
St John’s Chapel | Nearly There | Blue Bell, Hood St, DL13 1QJ, GBG. Friendly village local. 2018 |
West Cornforth | Try Also | Square and Compass, GBG, 2021 |
Westgate | Try Also | Hare and Hounds, GBG. 2018 |
Witton Gilbert | Nearly There | RE-ENTRY, Glendenning Arms, Front St, DH7 6SY. Village community local. 2022 |
The Square and Compass, West Cornforth
Hartlepool | Nearly There | RE_ENTRY, Causeway, Vicarage Gardens, Stranton, TS24 7QT. Fine Victorian pub close to Camerons Brewery. 2022 |
Hartlepool | Nearly There | RE-ENTRY, Rat Race Ale House, Hartlepool Station, TS24 7ED, GBG. The first micropub in the Northeast. Deservedly popular. 2022 |
Causeway, Hartlepool
Stockton | TOP 20 | Sun Inn, Knowles St, TS18 1SU. A proper boozer despite refurbishment, mainly full of blokes following the racing. Still the best pint of Bass in existence. 2022. |
Stockton | Nearly There | Golden Smog. 1 Hambletonian Yard, TS18 1DS, GBG. Friendly micropub. 2021. |

A couple of notes:
The five of the 2021Top 20, lost from the guide in 2022 due to the five-year rule, have all re-entered, though some require a further visit before reaching the Top 20 once more. A few pubs have been regraded this year and, while we have lost a small number due to the five-year rule they were all in the ‘Try Also’ category.
There is a general bias in this list towards town and city pubs, the result of increasingly poor or non-existent evening and Sunday rural bus services, and the habit of many pubs being closed during the day. When we do visit country pubs they can be quiet or more like restaurants, and it isn’t possible to gauge the atmosphere.
Finally, the prize for the berst-named beer goes to ‘Bojo’s Leaving Party’, seen in the Bay Horse, Bishop Auckland – and with a name like that I had to have a pint.
The Olde Ship, Seahouses
© Text and photos Copyright, Steve Gillon 2023.